Situated on South Africa’s East Coast, Durban is a precious cornerstone of the KwaZulu-Natal region. In Zulu, Durban is aptly known as ‘Thekweni,’ meaning “where the earth and ocean meet”. But don’t be fooled by the simple designation, neither Durban’s landscape nor its beaches are commonplace.
For any traveler seeking the indulgence of gorgeous topography paired with the elegance of the Indian Ocean’s sub-tropic aquamarine swells, Durban is for you. In the west of the city, art deco and modern architecture combine, spreading in the form of apartment buildings and hotels along the fine sands of an unspoiled shoreline, and comprising what is referred to by locals and vacationers alike as the “Golden Mile”. Interspersed among the hotels and apartment buildings are a handful of popular restaurants and nightclubs.
On the Golden Mile, a promenade runs from the surfing haven, South Beach, where uShaka Marine World is also located, to the newly constructed Suncoast Casino and Entertainment World in the north. Most of the beaches along this band are protected year-round by lifeguards and shark nets. Even so, with all the fuss over keeping sharks away and swimmers looked-after, don’t be surprised to find neither the sand nor the water overrun with bathers.
A Rich History
Durban is the third largest city in South Africa, and the largest city in KwaZulu-Natal. Well known as a surfer’s paradise, it is also among the busiest ports in Africa. After British annexation of the territory from the Dutch in the 1840’s, a vast sugar cane industry was established and thousands of indentured laborers were brought over from India. As a result of the importation of Indians, Durban became the largest Asian community in South Africa.
Although English is generally spoken on the street, many South Africans speak at least one language other than English (oftentimes several), and Durbanites are no exception. The end of apartheid in 1994 named eleven official languages in South Africa. Among them are the clicking consonants characteristic of Zulu and Xhosa words.
Although he no longer holds any direct political power, KwaZulu-Natal is the home to the Zulu Monarch, King Goodwill Zwelithini KaBhekuzulu, who is paid a stipend by the South African government and holds sway over the more traditionalist Zulu people in the province.
An Ideal Setting
Durban and the KwaZulu-Natal region offer something for everyone.
Durban’s metropolitan area has benefited in recent years by urban renewal programs. As a result of community efforts—or perhaps in addition to them—a fascinating street art scene is sprouting up citywide.
To glimpse part of this art scene, head over to the BAT Centre, an arts and crafts community center located in the small craft harbor off of Durban’s Victoria Embankment. Eat lunch in the café or enjoy an iced tea on the deck, from where you’ll enjoy a panoramic view of Durban’s working harbor. Afterward, browse the center’s many art studios, galleries, and music rooms, and purchase art and mementos from the artists themselves. On any given night of the week, live music, dancing, poetry readings and other events go on at the BAT Center, always attracting a lively crowd. Be sure to pick up a schedule of evening events from one of the galleries.
Another must is a trip to the muthi, or the ‘witches’ market for a glimpse of African traditional healing. This extensive, tumbledown marketplace is the spot to see ‘muthi,’ or traditional medicine, being made and prepared for sale. Stalls are covered with ingredients that range from such things as snake skins, crocodile teeth and birds claws to mysterious, brightly colored powders. The potions are concocted right there as you browse vendors for decorative walking sticks, African incense and car-tire sandals. Stop in at the sangoma for a quick “throw the bones,” a collection of bones and shells that are thrown on a mat to communicate with the ancestors and spirit guides. Be sure not to miss Davenport District in the suburb of Glenwood. Independent shops have sprung up around the Davenport Mall and can make for a cheerful afternoon of browsing and picking up yet more African art. Check out KwaZulu-Natal Society of the Arts. All along the same road are antique shops, home décor shops, second-hand stores, and Breathing Space Yoga Center, which offers beauty treatments as well as a wide range of organic cosmetics.
The western suburbs of Hillcrest and Kloof, formerly sleepy villages, have now become booming suburbs incorporated in the greater Durban area known as the eThekwini Municipal Area. Kloof, which means ‘gorge’ in Afrikaans, is known as a mist-belt with winding roads and mansions surrounded by trees. Kloof is predominantly English-speaking and features many high-end shopping centers as well as the Kloof Country Club.
Just outside of Durban, the breathtaking peaks of Drakensberg Mountains stretch more than 600 miles along the whole of KwaZulu-Natal’s western boundary. As a respite from city life, take a trip to Drakensberg. There you can enjoy hiking, white water rafting, game and bird watching, golfing, or fishing for trout.
The remarkable cave paintings of Drakensberg’s original inhabitants, the San Bushmen, can still be seen in caves throughout the Drakensberg region, and Kamberg National Park claims to have one of the best selections of Bushmen art in South Africa. Walking tours are operated daily, and the newly opened Kamberg Rock Art Center is a tool for helping visitors who wish to understand and interpret the more than 20,000 Sans Bushmen images to be found in the Ukhahlamba-Drakensberg Park.
Where to Stay:
Note: It is best to take cabs, rather than walking at night, and be sure to leave any irreplaceable items you are traveling with in your hotel safety deposit box. Country and City Code for Durban is (+27 - 31)
Gibela Backpackers Lodge-A jewel of a hostel; clean, chic and inexpensive. The rooms are named after the Zulu Kings dating back to 1667. Choose dorm-style rooms, singles or doubles. Praised as having the friendliest staff in South Africa and amazing breakfasts. 119 Ninth Ave, Morningside; 031/303-6291 , www.gibelabackpackers.co.za/
The Riverside Hotel & Spa-High on the banks of the Umgeni River mouth. Enjoy stunning river views and abundant relaxation. 267 Smith Street, Durban; 021/794-9050 ; 082/78... Restaurants and Night Life:Florida Road-A happening street with more than 30 restaurants, Florida Road is an ideal neighborhood to spend an evening out.
Joe Cools-For an experience that is both “vibrant and elegant,” try this restaurant oasis. Joe Cools is not only the place where Durban’s most beautiful and stylish hang out, it also serves up exquisitely delicious cocktails and very good food. North Beach, on the beach, Durban; 031/332-9697 , www.joecools.co.za/
Café Vacca Matta-This rustically chic restaurant offers a Mediterranean menu, gorgeous views of the Indian Ocean, an extensive cocktail list and live music. Shop U4, Suncoast Casino, Entertainment World, 20 Battery Beach Road, 031/368/6535; www.vaccamatta.com
Billy the BUMS (Basic Up Market Socialite)-More than 50 exotic cocktails to choose from and good American-style food, including mouth watering homemade burgers. Enjoy a cocktail while enjoying a stunning sunset from the large patio. 504 Windermere Road, Morningside, Durban; 031/303 1988 ; www.billythebums.co.za
Panamaroom Night Club-A stylish, all white décor cools things down just as the music starts to burn it up. 178 Stamford Hill, Durban; 083/799-1899 The BAT Centre-From poetry readings, to dance parties, to live music, something is going down every night of the week. 45 Maritime Place; 031/ 332-0451; http://www.batcentre.co.za
Where to Shop:Muthi Market-African traditional healing. Extends around the Victoria Street Indian market, over the footbridges to the taxi ranks at Warwick Triangle.
KwaZulu-Natal Society of the Arts-Contemporary artists exhibited in three exhibition spaces. 166 Bulwer Road, Glenwood; 031/202-3686 ; www.kznagallery.co.za; shop@kznsagallery.co.za
Breathing Space Yoga Center-Beauty treatments and organic cosmetics. Corner of Bulwer and Ferguson Road, Glenwood; 031/201-7282 What to Do:Drakensberg Mountains-Hiking, fishing, white water rafting, exploring. http://www.drakensberg-tourism.com
Kamberg Nature Reserve-Situated within the Natal Drakensberg Park and located centrally in the foothills of the mountains. Access to the reserve is along a partly tarred road, off the main N3 highway; www.drakensberg-tourism.com/ kamberg
uShaka Marine World-This extensive theme park centers around the recreation and site of the wreck of a 1920s cargo ship, making a strong connection with the symbolism of the interaction between land, sea and sky; it is a complete marine land, and a place to enjoy an entire day of fun. 1 Bell Street, Durban; 031/328-8000 ; www.ushakamarineworld.co.za; mkt@ushakamarineworld.co.za
Suncoast Casino & Entertainment World-Along the beachfront of the “Golden Mile,” Suncoast boasts of its Miami South Beach Art Deco style architecture, and offers gaming, shopping and entertainment. Suncoast Blvd. Marine Parade, Durban; 031/328-3000 ; www.suncoastcasino.tsogosun.co.za; webmaster@tsogosun.com
Phezulu Safari Park-Located between Botha’s Hill and Drummond, the safari park overlooks the Valley of 1,000 hills. Don’t miss the Zulu village and dancing show. Old Main Road, Durban; 031/777-1000 ; crocodile@dbn.lia.net
Umgeni River Bird Park- Boasts a collection of over 3,000 exotic and indigenous birds. 490 Riverside Road, Durban; 031/579-4600 ; info@umgeniriverbirdpark.co.za; www.umgeniriverbirdpark.co.za
Durban Botanic Gardens-Specialties include The Ernest Thorp Orchid House, an herb garden, a sunken garden, and a garden for the blind. 70 St. Thomas Road, Durban; 031/201-1303 ; dalzellc@prcsu.gov.za; www.durbanbotanicgardens.org.za
Shongweni Resource Reserve-A large nature reserve just 23 miles north of Durban. Shongweni Dam, Durban; 031/769-1283 ; shongweni@msinsi.co.za; www.msinsi.co.za
Must See: The red African sun slipping pink into the Indian Ocean.
Text and Photos 5 & 6 by Sabrina Canfield
www.travelsquire.com
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